Bergen

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Bergen is the second largest city in Norway. Historically, it has been an important trading center. It is a major cultural center in Norway, hosting many festivals and music events. It rains a lot, so bring an umbrella. It's not that bad. The best time to visit is in the spring/summer.

View of Bergen from the top of Fløyen
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View of Bergen from the top of Fløyen

Contents

Get in

Take the train from Oslo. Beautiful views over the mountains.

Take the ferry from Stavanger. Because this ferry stops at various small towns on the way there, you get a great view of the coast, and of the islands in front of it. Fjord1 runs ferries up and down the west coast.

Fly in to Bergen's international airport. Norwegian Airlines offers flights from several European cities directly to Bergen, and even more to Oslo.

Get around

Walking is the best way to get around! Bergen is a tight city, located in a narrow space, between two fjords and seven mountains. The downtown is small, as the physical limits are set by the nature. You can walk across the downtown in 20 minutes in any direction.

There is a good local bus service and a information boot that covers the whole county at the bus station (ground floor at Bystasjonen). You can also reach them at telephone 177. This number works for local transport information in the whole country, I believe. Use it! They will figure out the best means of public transportation. There is also a free bus service that drives through downtown 6 days a week every 10 minutes during normal working hours.

Car is a nightmare downtown. Park your car at one of the car parks. There is very limited parking space downtown. And the downtown is divided into zones, like four slices of pizza. You cannot cross from one zone to another. You have to drive around, as there is no way to drive across. Most streets are one-way streets. So if you do not know what you are doing, you will not make it!

There is a regular bus service between airport and downtown. The trip takes 30 minutes and costs around NOK 70. Frequency is at regular hours is 15 minutes, evenings every 30 minutes. There is always a bus from airport to downtown after the arrival of a plane. However, there is not always a bus to the airport. Particularly, late in Saturday evening the last flight has a bad bus connection.

Using taxi is expensive. There are a few places where the taxis are parked waiting for customers. You can find them behind the railway station and at ‘Ole Bulls plass’. In addition, there are several places that open during the day and closed during nights. Their own rules prohibit picking up customers nearer than 300m from these. So, if a taxi will not stop for you, you need to find where they are parked. Alternatively, call 07000 or 08000 for a cab. Taxi from downtown to the airport is around NOK400.

See

Bergen Fish Market

Bergen's fish market has a long history, being the historical centre for fish trade. With locals changing their shopping habits towards supermarkets, the fish market today does not compare to what it once was. Held every day, this fish market doesn't just sell fresh and prepackaged fish but also other foods, and souvenirs for the tourists. Still, you can get a pretty good idea of what the locals eat by having a look at the various fish they sell here, and try some of the stranger ones if you feel adventurous.

Bryggen

This small area used to be a Hansa dock, trading and processing area. After being neglected and burning down (Norwegian cities have a habit of burning down because everything is made of wood), this area has been reconstructed and now houses shops, a museum on the history of Bergen and of Bryggen. If you enter some of the alleyways between the storefronts you really get a feel of what bergen must have been like in the middle ages.

Bergen's historic Bryggen
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Bergen's historic Bryggen

Bergen Aquarium

Fløibanen

Fløibanen is a cable car which goes up Mount Fløien, one of the hills overlooking Bergen. From here, you get a great view of the city, and of the other surrounding mountains. You can also hike up Fløien; this will first take you through some housing, and but after a short while you will end up in the same park the cable car goes through. The hike takes about 1.5-2.5 hours up, and about 1.5 hour down.

Grieghuset

This is the house of the famous composer Edvard Grieg, who wrote the Peer Gynt suite and is Norway's national composer. His country house (just outside the town centre of Bergen - take the bus there) has been preserved in the state it was in when he died in the late 19th century. You can also see his grave; he was buried on his own estate.

Fantoft Stavkirke

This is one of Norway's tradition stave churches - churches built in a distinctive style using the logs of trees as pillars, by the early Christians. While this one is neither the oldest, nor the most authentic one (it has been restored extensively), this one is close to a city centre. It is highly recommended that you visit one of these churches if you go to Norway; it's as close as you're going to get to the real vikings. It is on the same bus line as the Grieg House.

Bergenshus Festning

This is the old fort of Bergen, which dates to the 13th century. Several kings of Norway are buried here, though the chapel has since been demolished. The royal hall from the same period (haakonshallen) is still standing, though. The fortress grounds also serve as a city park; you can hang out here and eat that fish you just bought at the nearby fishmarket - or just enjoy the sunshine and the view.

Do

Eat

It is difficult to find places to eat outside the central downtown. You can find restaurants in all price ranges.

There are several places that give you value for the money near the Theater (Den Nasjonale Scene).

  • Cafe Opera has great food and cakes for the money. This is a place with many regular customers. During the day they serve lunch and cakes. Early in the evening it is a place for dinner and beer. Late night is for dancing. You can spend your whole day here!
  • Cafe Jonsvoll, has great food for the busy ones. You can drink your coffee and watch the world pass in front of the windows. This is a popular place for drinks in the evening. Café Henrik in the second floor is a great beer place, no food served, crowded in the evenings.
  • Naboen is restaurant that creates food from local ingredients. Ground floor has a restaurant with two price ranges. You can get the best priced gourmet food in Bergen. They also have a 'Swedish' meny, where dishes cost around NOK 90, but still prepared from first class ingredients, and you get to enjoy the freshly baked bread and white table cloths. For dinnertime dining you probably should make a reservation first. There is a crowded pub in the basement. Entrance through the restaurant.

Near the rail station (eastern downtown)

  • Kafe Kaffaen is a small café, offering very cheap meals and coffee (around NOK 10). The cafe has a lovely garden. If you belong on the left side of politics, it's a fair chance that you'll meet some Norwegian counterparts here.

Near University (western downtown)

  • In Christiesgate 9 (just above the tunnel opening) you can find a bakery with the best croissants from north of Paris.

Nordnes (northern downtown)

You should take time for a walk on Nordnes. And check out the small alleys, know as smug.

  • Cafe Kippers, is located 1 km north from the theater, at USF Cultural Center. This is the best place for outdoor beer in Bergen. They have a huge pier and best evening view in Bergen. Their food is great during the winter. During summer they open a second kitchen that does not have the same quality, as they are catering ten times as many people, and you should be prepared for a long wait. But sea, sun and beer make the whole thing worthwhile.

Drink

You might want to take a deep breath and a few shots before heading into the insanity of Bergen.

Fincken is the center of gay nightlife in Bergen, although these days Fincken is mixed crowd with plenty of men that aren't gay by any stretch of the imagination. On weekends Fincken is cordoned off and valid ID is (theoretically) required to enter.

Sleep

The Bergen YMCA is a decent youth hostel right in the center of town, with a rooftop terrace where you can sit and look out over the old town centre.

Other bargain accommodation options (with phone numbers) include; Marken (55 31 44 04), Crowded House (55 90 72 00), Jacob's Apartments (98 23 86 00), Montana (55 20 80 70), Intermission (55 30 04 00), Scandia (55 21 00 35), Villa Balconen (55 96 40 60), or Intermission (55 31 71 78).

Get out

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