Chiang Mai
From World travel guide
eltrolerroou Chiang Mai (à¹à¸à¸µà¸¢à¸à¹à¸«à¸¡à¹) is the gateway to Northern Thailand. With a population of over 200,000 and growing, Chiang Mai is Thailand's largest city after Bangkok. With a cosmopolitan air and a significant expat population, it's much greener and quieter than Bangkok, factors which have led many Thai visitors from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "Rose of the North". Located on a plain surrounded by mountains, the peak of Doi Suthep looms just 13 kilometers away and looks over the city and surrounding lush countryside.
Contents |
Understand
Amidst the rolling foot hills of the Himalayan Mountains some 800 kilometers north of Bangkok is the culturally rich city of Chiang Mai, the longest continuously lived in settlement from the ancient days of Siam. Founded in 1296 AD it was isolated from Bangkok and could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant back trip until the 1920's. Such isolation has helped keep Chiang Mai's distinctive charm intact up to the present day.
Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city wall are more then 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality in 1296. Doi Suthep temple which is on the mountaintop at 3500 feet above and overlooking the city is a shrine to both Thai and foreign visitors. These Temples are a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree.
Orientation
Chiang Mai's historical center is the walled city (chiang in Thai, hence Chiang Mai "New Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east towards the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where you'll find Thanon Chang Khlan, the famous Night Bazaar and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guesthouses. The locals have a saying that you have not experienced Chiang Mai unless you have seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of Kao Soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Song.
Get in
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Eat
Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth with chicken or beef. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there is a wide range of excellent western food restaurant in Chiang Mai, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian eateries.
Dress Code: You are in a tropical country so daytime wear of shorts, Tshirt, etc. is quite okay. However, it earns you points if you look clean and tidy. Thai people (even the poorest) take pride in personal cleanliness and appearance (look at school kids and college students) so the "unkempt" style of some visitors is not appreciated. In the evenings long trousers (dress or skirt for ladies) with a neat shirt/blouse, shoes with socks for men and nice shoes for women (no flip flops) are a must if you wish to enter a nice restaurant and get a good seat. The nicer you dress the better the table and service. If not you might get a table next to the bathroom, in a corner away from the view or in front of a loud music speaker.
Chanchao's Chiang Mai Food Review is a good source of information on the fast-changing culinary scene.
Budget
Thai Food
- Galare Food Centre. Th Chang Khlan (opposite the Night Bazaar Building). Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50B.
- Anusarn Market. Th. Chang Khlan (Same side of road as "Galare Food Centre" but much further up beyond Loi Kroh crossroad towards Sri Dornchai) Busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere and cheap.
- Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang Th Moon Muang (near Th Ratchamankha). Serves authentic kuaytiow reua (lit. "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). Contrary to Lonely Planet's claims the accompanying veggies are kailan, not ganja, but it's good stuff anyway at 25B a pop. No English sign.
Western Food
- Mike's Hamburger Stand. Located on the corner of Chaiyapoom Road and Chang Moi Road along the east side of the moat. Nothing fancy just stools and a counter in an open shop. Real good hamburgers for 60 Baht, excellent onion rings. If your tired of rice and noodles this is nice place to stop for lunch while walking around town. Bacon, or ham and egg sandwiches on the breakfast menu. Open 9 AM to 3 AM.
- FISH'N CHIPS SHOP, Ratchawitee Rd., Tel. 053-418210. Fresh, crispy. The name says it all.
Mid-range
On the east bank of the Ping River north of Nawarat Bridge is a cluster of restaurants that double up as nightlife spots, so see the listings under Drink.
Thai food
- Heuan Phen, 112 Th Ratchamankha. A specialist in Northern Thai food, popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will still leave you change from 50 baht! Open 8 AM-3 PM, 5 PM-10 PM daily.
Western Food
- The Dukes. Located 50 meters north of the Tourism Authority of Thailand office at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai - Lumpoon Road south of the Narawat bridge on the east side of the Ping River. Tel. 053-249231. Excellent home cooking style dishes and deserts. Full Bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, no loud music or entertainmant just good food.
- EL TORO RESTAURANT & PUB, 5/2 Loi Kroh Road. New Mexico style Mexican food at its finest prepared by experienced cook. FREE food from 5 pm to 7 pm every Friday.
- CHIANG MAI KEBAB, 69/4 Kotchasarn Rd. Chicken, beef kebab, salad, Pita bread, falafel, samosa, vegetarian. 5 pm to midnight. 07-188 1832
- O'MALLEY'S Irish Restaurant, Anusarn Market, 149-14/15 Changklan Rd. Truly fine Int'l cuisine. The place for Guinness on tap. Tel. 053-271921.
- THE MEETING Restaurant & Cafe, 6/1 Soi 1, Kotchasarn Rd. Have a talk with the friendly managers. Closed Sundays.
Vegetarian
- KHUN CHURN, 120/2 Nimmanhemin Rd., Soi 7, Tel. 053-224124. Thai vegetarian. Open 9.30 am-2.30 pm., 5.30-10.00 pm. Closed the 16th of every month.
Splurge
Thai Food
When you come to Chiang Mai you should take in a traditional Khantoke dinner and show. This is not just for tourists as the Northern Thai people have been enjoying the Khantoke dinner for centuries. There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.
- Khum Khantoke, Located in Chiang Mai Business Park, tel. 053-304121. Be entertained while you dine on traditional North Thailand Cuisine. Reservations are a good Idea to get a good seat. Family style all you can eat 350 baht. Nightly 7 to 10 PM.
- Old Chiang Mai Culture Center 185/3 Wualai Road, tel. 053-275097. This is the first commercial Khantoke Dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best Northern Thai food of any of the Kantoke establishments however the seating, show and music are not as good as at Khum Khantoke. Nightly 7 to 9:30 PM.
- BAAN ROM MAI Garden Restaurant, Changklan Plaza, 191/12 Changklan Rd., Tel. 053-820031-2. Open daily from 10 am - midnight.
- GALAE Garden Restaurant, At the end of Suthep Rd., Tel. 053-278655, 053-811041. Doi Suthep foothill location at edge of a sparkling reservoir. Thai & Northern Thai food and grilled specialties in delightful outdoors.
- LE GRAND LANNA Garden Restaurant, 51/3 Sankampaeng Rd. Definite MUST SEE for its Architectural teak splendor. Tel. 053-262569. Open daily.
- PALAAD TAWANRON Garden Restaurant, On a resevoir. Thai and English food. Wat Fai Hin behind CHiang Mai University, Suthep Road. Tel. 053-216576, 053-216039.
- SAENKHAM TERRACE Garden Restaurant, Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, 199/163 T. Maehea, Tel. 053-838990. Open daily 11 am - 10 pm.
Western Food
- FILLMORE EAST BAR AND GRILL, Charernrasd Rd., Tel. 053-262416. Seating on two dining terraces facing Mae Ping river. Delicous USDA Beef, lamb, veal, chops, burgers. Excellent homemade deserts such as pecan, pumpkin and apple pie with large choice of toppings. The bar is seperate from the riverside dinning area so you can enjoy a romantic dinner in peace.
- PICCOLA ROMA PALACE Italian Restaurant, At corner of Charoenprathet & Sri Donchai Roads near Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel, Tel. 053-820297-8, 053-271256. Open lunch & dinner. An unforgettable dining experience amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents over 15 years.
- THE MANGO TREE Cafe, 8/2-3 Loi Kroh Rd., Tel. 053-208292. Open 7 am to 10.30 pm. Top quality Thai & Western cuisine. Sunday Roast Lamb.
- ALOIS Bavarian Restaurant, Soi 8, Phrapoklao Rd. Open Tuesday- Sunday, 11.30 am to 11 pm. Authentic Bavarian specialties. Tel. 053-278515.
- THE HOUSE, 199 Moonmuang Rd., Tel. 053-419011. Old 1930's colonial style house in town center. Pacific Rim & Fusion food. Open 6 pm.
Vegetarian
- WHOLE EARTH, 88 Sridonchai Rd., Tel. 282463. Open 11 AM until 9 pm.
Drink
Chiang Mai's nightlife scene is the most happening in the North, although still a far cry from Bangkok's. Chiang Mai is still popular for its nightlife, as well as the charming city and beautiful surrounding countryside. There are discos, karaoke bars, and live music everywhere. Thai people are often as interested in meeting you as you might be in meeting them, but one should exercise discretion and sometimes a bit of caution, especially in matters of the heart. In romantic situations, Westerners and Thais both occasionally get hurt. The best advice is to think with your head AND your heart. Enjoy yourself, but be very adult about any given situation. The two busiest nightlife zones are near Tapae Gate, Loi Kroh Road and along Charoenrat Road on the eastern bank of the Ping River.
Bars and pubs
Most of Chiang Mai's bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Road and Moon Muang Road. Here you can find small expat hangouts, Go Go bars and sports bars. Most have pool tables, hostesees along with music videos or various sports programs shown on television.
Live music
The most visited is along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoenrat road. This is the area famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai and country and western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, western, and Chinese food. If you are coming from the center of the city, just walk from the night bazaar across the Narawatt Bridge. From the bridge, you can see all the restaurants along the river on your left. Once you cross the bridge, turn left and, on your right, will be Chiang Mai's first church and a riverside park on your left.
Most bands in Chiang Mai play at one venue for about an hour, and then move on to another restaurant or pub. Donât be surprised if you see a band playing at the Chiang Mai Riverside and, one hour later, at The Good View.
- The Chiang Mai Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoenrat Road, tel. +66-53-243239, Mai.com/. Everyone who has been to Chiang Mai eats at least once here. There is a large menu of Thai and western food. If you want a good homemade hamburger, this is a good place to get one. The live music starts around 7pm with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles, or soft jazz. Starting at 9pm, the music changes to more rock and pop songs. Full bar service serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. The Chiang Mai Riverside restaurant gets very crowded, so get here early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 8 PM for 70B/person extra.
- The Good View, 13 Charoenrat Road, tel. +66-53-241886, [1]. Thai and western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music entertain in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice, and pizza. Soft drinks and a full bar serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. Again, if you want a good, riverside-view table get there early.
- La Brasserie, 37 Charoenrat Road, tel. +66-53-241-665. This riverside venue is well known for nightly performances by a talented guitarist named Took and his band, who plays renditions of old Hendrix, Dylan, Marley, Stevie Ray Vaughn, and other favorites. Sit outside in the lush garden setting where acoustic guitar is played (7pm to midnight) or inside at the bar and catch the famous Took and Friends (11pm to 2am). There is also a good selection of cocktails and spirits. Not famous for food but the music is great.
- Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Th Charoenrat (next to Gallery Restaurant), tel. +66 53248601. Good for a drink any day, but best visited on Saturdays for live jazz.
Nightclubs
- Bubbles. B1, Porn Ping Tower, 46 Th Charoen Prathet. This would be just another cheesy hotel disco if not for some good DJs and enthusiastic crowds; now it's cheesy, packed and fun hotel disco on weekend nights. Cover 100B including one drink, open until 2 AM.
Spicy is a good after hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of local good looking girls looking to party :)
Sleep
Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are availably from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service and the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is in the Thai style boutique resort located near the old city center. Several have been built since mid 2005 and offer excellent service in a quiet garden setting. Most of these are fairly small with a little as 8 rooms with a pool and decorated with Thai Crafts and Antiques.
Some of the cheaper accommodation will expect you to purchase their trekking package. So if you stay at a budget place, it may be wise to ask about their trekking package before you agree to stay. Some will refuse to have you unless you do a trek with them.
Budget
- Hollanda Montri Guesthouse, 365 Charoenrat Rd. (bit north on same road as The Riverside and Good View), tel. +66-53242450, [2]. Family style guesthouse with a tropical garden on the banks of the Mae Ping River, 10 minutes from the center of town. Fan/air-con rooms 280/380 baht.
- Marlboro/Joe Guest House, 138 Sithiwongse Rd., tel. +66-53-2325989. [3] Clean and cheap guest house, more like a small family run hotel that really makes you feel at home.
- Wanasit Guesthouse, 6 Ratchamankha Rd. Soi 8, [4]. Modern, clean Guesthouse located in a quiet alley in the historical centre next to the Wat Phra Singh temple.
Mid-range
- Baan Orapin, 150 Th Charoenrat, tel. +66 16164016, [5]. This "boutique B&B" with just 6 rooms is in beautifully restored old Thai house set in a small garden. Air-con, hot water and far more character than any hotel in this price range. Walking distance to the Night Bazaar and the riverside restaurants. Rates from 1000B for a double.
- Pornping Tower, 46-48 Th Charoenprathet, tel. 053 270099 (fax: 053 270119), Mai.com/. The Pornping Tower offers not only an amusing name, but slowly fading grandeur at affordable prices. Located near the Night Bazaar, the hotel has a pool and the Bubbles disco, among the most popular in Chiang Mai -- and a source of some noise pollution if trying to sleep. The newer and quieter Tower Wing is a bit more expensive than the older Front Wing. B1000 and up (with breakfast).
- Rydges Tapae Gate, 22 Th Chaiyapoom, A. Muang, tel. +66 53251531, fax +66 53251465, Mai.com. A hotel mainly visited by foreign tourists, in a good location between the old city and the night market (both in walking distance). Some rooms offer wonderful mountain views. It`s a good mid-range option with prices starting at B1700 (internet rates/ travel agents start at B1400).
- Raming Lodge, 17-19 Loi Kroh Rd, T. Chang Klan, A. Muang, tel. +66 53 271 777, fax +66 53 270 039, [6]. Great boutique hotel between the night market and the old city. Unique Lanna architecture. No swimming pool. Food at the restaurant is reasonably priced as are the massages (Thai massage B300 per hour). Great place to stay with prices starting at B1800 (internet rates start at B850).
Splurge
- Regent Four Seasons, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, tel +66 53 298 181, fax +66 53 298 189, Mai/index.html. The latest word in luxury, the Regent Chiang Mai is features the service to be expected in a Four Seasons property and set is in the lush and tranquil countryside amid working paddy fields and water buffalo (the downside of this being, obviously, a less than central location). Featuring a spa and Thai cooking classes within its grounds, if it wasn't for all the mystical temples and fabulous bargains to be found within Chiang Mai, you might never want to leave. If you can afford it, look into the residences, otherwise the garden rooms are equally spectacular and well worth the B17,000 they start at — if you can foot the bill.
Contact
Stay safe
Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but crime is rare and tourists shouldn't worry unduly. Obviously you should take normal precautions but the city is safe and welcoming for travellers.
Cope
Get out
- Chiang Dao, an hour north of the city, is a good starting point for treks into the mountains.
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