Fraser's Hill
From World travel guide
Fraser's Hill (Bukit Fraser) is a colonial-era hill station in Pahang state, Peninsular Malaysia.
Contents |
Understand
Fraser's Hill is named after Louis James Fraser, a Scotsman who prospected for gold in Australia but eventually struck tin here instead in the 1890s. Employing Chinese miners to do the hard work for him and earning his keep by operating mule trains down the mountain, Fraser set up opium and gambling dens to increase his profits, which may have had something to do with his subsequent mysterious disappearance. The tin ran out in 1913, but the lush valley within was rediscovered as a colonial hill resort that, thanks to its 1524m elevation, enjoys considerably cooler temperatures than Kuala Lumpur. By 1922 a road had been cut through the mountains to the valley, which soon sprouted bungalows and even one of Malaya's first golf courses.
Not much has changed since, and Fraser's Hill retains a wonderfully weird mixed-up character, where locals eat curries off banana leaves in a English cottage next to a golf course while the call to prayer sounds from the mosque.
Orientation
Orienting yourself in Fraser's Hill is easy enough: the entrance via the Gap is at the southwest corner of the valley and the "center" as such is at the intersection of Jalan Genting and Jalan Lady Guillemard, with the much-photographed clock tower marking the spot. Most restaurants and shops are clustered here, while the golf course takes up the bottom of the valley and bungalows and swanky residences dot the hills all around.
Get in
Fraser's Hill is located 105 km north of Kuala Lumpur, around 2 hours by car. Access to Fraser's Hill is possible only via a 8-km one-lane road known as the The Gap, used by uphill and downhill traffic in turns. The Gap is open from 7 AM to 8 PM, with ascending traffic allowed on odd hours (7 AM, 9 AM, etc) and descending traffic allowed on even hours (8 AM, 10 AM, etc). As the trip takes about 20 minutes one-way, to use eg. the 9 AM shift up you have to reach the Gap before 9:40 AM.
In 2001 a second road to Fraser's Hill was completed, but it was soon closed down due to shoddy construction, and as of 2005 all passenger traffic once again still uses the Gap.
By taxi
Aside from a private car, the easiest way to get to Fraser's Hill to charter a taxi from Kuala Lumpur. Normal KL taxis can't do the trip, but you can arrange one from the Puduraya bus station, or call up Selangor Radio Taxi (tel. 03-2936213) or Comfort Taxi (tel. 03-7330495). You can expect to be quoted around RM200 for a one-way transfer, but this can be negotiated down, even more so for a return trip.
By bus
Bus services are somewhat inconvenient but not impossible if you time things right. You have to first take a bus from KL's Puduraya station to Kuala Kubu Baru, then change for a shuttle bus to Fraser's Hill (services up at 8 AM and 12 noon, down at 10 AM and 2 PM).
Get around
For getting around Fraser's Hill, your own car is the best option. Most distances are, however, walkable if you're not in hurry and don't mind going up/downhill or taking the trails through the jungle.
See
Fraser's Hill is famed worldwide as a birdwatching destination, with over 250 species recorded. Winners during the annual Bird Race have spotted as many as 70 species within 24 hours!
- Fraser's Hill Nature Education Centre, Jalan Genting, [1]. On the second floor of the Sports Complex, this WWF-affiliated center has some lackluster displays about flora and fauna in the area, but the staff are quite helpful and visiting is free (donations welcome).
Do
The top sporty activities on Fraser's Hill are hiking and golf.
Hiking
There are eight signposted trails around Fraser's Hill, although some have been closed at least temporarily after a well-publicized incident in 2005 when three young boys got lost in the jungle. Watch out for leeches.
- Hemmant Trail. An easy 20-minute trail along the north side of the golf course.
- Bishop's Trail. Effectively a continuation of the Hemmant Trail, this is a slightly more challenging half-hour track through the jungle. Slippery when wet.
- Pine Tree Trail. A challenging 6-kilometer trail up and down hills to the eponymous Pine Tree Hill, and you'll have to return the way you came to boot. This is a full-day hike that will take 7-8 hours at a moderate pace.
Golf
- Fraser's Hill Golf and Country Club, tel. +60-9-3622777, [2]. 18 holes. Green fees RM100/120 weekdays/weekends.
- Royal Fraser's Hill Golf Club. 9 holes in the middle of the valley, build on top of the former tin mine. Challenging.
Buy
While you can get your fill of Fraser's Hill T-shirts and fridge magnets from the souvenic shops around the clock tower, the most useful local fashion accessory in these parts is a pair of leech socks. Baggy stockings of unbleached cotton worn over your pants, these not only prevent unwanted blood transfusions, but also double as handy Christmas decorations if you paint on a reindeer or two. RM16 from the Nature Education Centre.
Eat
- Food Court, Jalan Genting (just south of the mosque). This is actually just a small cluster of hawker stalls serving up cheap and tasty local food. Most meals under RM5.
- The Tavern, Jalan Genting (at clock tower). Drop in for a serve of authentically unappetizing British grub like lamb chops with potatoes and mint sauce (RM22), or the rather more palatable tea and scones (RM12).
Drink
Nightlife in Fraser's Hill is basically nonexistent, but the Tavern and the Smokehouse can serve you a pint of Guinness.
Sleep
Most visitors come during the weekend, so it's not usual for rates to be discounted as much as 50% on weekdays.
Mid-range
- Jelai Highlands Resort, Jalan Ampang, tel. +60-9-3622600. This aging resort looks more appealing from afar than up close, but it's comparatively economical and functional. Standard (twin) room RM90/100, double (queen) room RM100/120 weekdays/weekends.
Splurge
The best way to splurge on Fraser's Hill is to rent a private bungalow. Rates vary widely, from under RM300/day for a small, crumbling bungalow to RM1500/day for a top-of-the-line outfit complete with housekeeper. All bungalow have multiple bedrooms and can easily fit 4 or more people. Book directly with the Fraser's Hill Development Corporation, tel. +60-9-3622044.
- Ye Olde Smokehouse, Jalan Jeriau, tel. +60-9-3622226, fax +60-9-3622035, [3]. This Tudor-style house is the best choice for a spot of colonial swank. Rooms from RM280+, including English breakfast.
Stay safe
The trails are fairly well marked but not trivial, so register your intentions with the Tourist Information Centre if you plan on tackling the longer ones. Watch out for muddy trails after rain and take precautions against leeches.
Contact
Start your visit by dropping into the Fraser's Hill Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Genting, to your left past the top gate of the Gap. They hand out a useful (albeit scaleless) map and can advise on trails and such.
