Imlil
From World travel guide
Imlil is a small village in the high Atlas Mountains of Morocco. It is a good starting point for a trekking holiday or for climbing Mt Tobkal the second highest mountain in Africa. Imlil village has a variety of shops and "pensions" as well as being a base for guides and trekking parties. The route to Toubkal starts in the village. Its a progressive community and monies from tourism go into a variety of projects organised by the Village association such as litter collection and disposal and a new Hammam due to open in November 2004.
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Get in
It takes about 2 hours to get from Marrakech to Asni. There are buses from the central bus station which ostensibly leave every 30 minutes (but often don't for hours). A quicker way is to take a petite taxi to the out-of-town grande taxi park (cost 15dh. If you're better at haggling you can get this lower, if you care about a few pence). From there, a grande taxi will take you to Asni (cost 90dh split between 6). Grande taxis are maybe not the way, if you don't like sharing very confined spaces with strangers. However, travellers usually get on well, swapping food and drink, etc.
In the rough guide, it says something to the effect that there's open-back trucks that take the villagers up and down the mountain to Imlil. This is true, but they leave only a few times a week. Be warned there are many conmen in Asni: Travellers are told about the 'bus', by a 'local' who's story matches the guide book's exactly. They are told they should follow him to the village where the truck is. However, this is just a ploy to try to get them to buy his cheap jewelry. Instead, you will be better off hitching to Imlil. The road up the pass is quite busy during the day, and a ride can be found for around 20 or 30 dh.
The road is being upgraded but can be prone to flooding.
As you travel up the valley from Asni to Imlil (in a beaten up reno or whatever), the countryside around you will transform: From arid dust to green, leafy foliage. The temperature will drop also, a very welcome break from the baking heat of Marrakech
See
Understand
There is a Village Association which is using money from tourism to address the problems it brings as well as start new projects. A local "tax" has been agreed by many of the businesses providing tourist facilities to fund projects. To date a Land Rover Ambulance has been acquired so that the valley population has a safer way of getting to hospital, litter collections have been started and in December 2005 a village Hammam has been opened on the little road up to the school.
Oddly, while the villages in the next valley don't have running water or electricity, Imlil has its own mobile phone mast: The villagers never stop texting each other.
Do
Visitors can use the new Hammam by joining the Imlil Village Association and paying a small entrance fee.
Eat
Across the street from the Refuge is cafe Aksoual (see photo). Here you can have a yummy tagine (although it is possible to get bored of them) and a mint tea.
Relax at the cafe until night falls. Mind the mosquitos though from the river. At 9:30pm you will hear the sound of the call to prayer. The Mosques sound even more ancient and timeless in the mountains, the sound echoing through the hills, the distant villages far down the valley seeming to reply.
Sleep
Leaving the stress and insanity of Marrakech for this little mountain village and surroundings is a good idea, even just for a day or two. You can pitch a tent in a grassy clearing beside the French Refuge. You can stay in the Refuge too. Both options are cheap.
The refuge was washed away, along with part of the village in 2000-2003. It's since been rebuilt and is fine for use again.
Imlil also has several pensions in the village area:
If you want really upmarket accommodation the Kasbah du Toubkal above the village will provide wonderful accommodation. There is a Kasbah office in Imlil (to the left just opposite the car park) who can help with reservations or see the website link below. One of the great delights of the area is to sit on the Kasbah roof eating lunch or taking tea and watching the subtle changes of colour of the surrounding mountains as the sun moves.
Get out
From Imlil the trekker can strike out into the mountains. The most popular route is southwards, towards Mt Tobkal. However heading North over the pass to Ikkiss and Tacheddirt is possible too.
When heading out, it is possible to hire a mule or donkey to carry your luggage. If you're inexperienced, or the weather looks dodgy, a guide might be a good idea too.
External links
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