Jerusalem/Old City

From World travel guide

The Old City of Jerusalem is that part of Jerusalem surrounded by the impressive 16th century Ottoman city walls and representing the heart of the city both historically and spiritually. In a city already divided, the Old City is further divided culturally and historically into four Quarters: (clockwise from the south-east) the Jewish Quarter, the Armenian Quarter, the Christian Quarter and the Muslim Quarter.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 3 Get around 4 See 4.1 Christian Quarter 4.2 Muslim Quarter 4.3 Jewish Quarter 4.4 Armenian Quarter 4.5 Outside the Walls 4.6 Mount of Olives / Garden of Gethsemane 5 Do 6 Buy 7 Eat 7.1 Jewish Quarter 7.2 Christian Quarter 7.3 Armenian Quarter 7.4 Muslim Quarter 8 Drink 9 Sleep 9.1 Hostels 9.2 Hospices 10 Contact 11 External links

Understand

Despite its small size, or perhaps because of it, the Old City is amazing. You do not need to be Jewish, Christian, or Muslim, or to be overly concerned with religion, to be somewhat overwhelmed. Anyone with a sense of history, spirituality or the human species should be absorbed by the tremendous weight of human civilization that cloaks nearly every part of the city. It is an inhabited, living city - not a deserted museum or monument. The passion play that is humanity has been in constant revival at this location for most of the length of recorded history, and they keep re-using the same props for as long as possible.

Imagine the coolest bar in your city. The one that for the last 20 years has been hosting the hottest, most innovative, most classic artists and musicians to come through town. The bar where the fifty year old bartender with the Jerry Garcia hair, nose ring and 25 year old partner can point to a gouge on the counter and honestly tell you that Jimi Hendrix made that with his guitar one night while falling down drunk. Now imagine that the bar is 2500 years old and been going strong the entire time, including tonight.

That's the feeling of ancient Jerusalem. Don't get the wrong idea though - there is no night life in the Old City...but there is just outside its walls.

Get in

The Old City is accessed by seven gates in the Ottoman city wall. In clockwise order, together with an eighth gate (now closed):

1. Jaffa Gate on the western side of the city (access from West Jerusalem), next to the Citadel. Jaffa Gate has a large taxi rank for easy access in and out of the Old City.
2. New Gate, on the northeastern edge of the Old City, the closest gate to West Jerusalem and convenient for entry to the Christian Quarter
3. Damascus Gate on the northern side of the city (access from East Jerusalem)
4. Herod's Gate, also on the northern side of the city
5. Lion Gate (also St. Stephen's Gate) on the eastern side of the city, near the Mount of Olives and at the start of the Via Dolorosa.
6. Golden Gate, on the east wall of the Temple Mount, was long ago sealed shut by the Ottomans. According to tradition the Messiah will arrive in the Temple via this gate.
7. Dung Gate on the southern side of the city, which provides direct access to the Jewish quarter. This is the terminal of buses 1 and 2.
8. Zion Gate on the southern side of the city, which provides direct access to the Armenian quarter.

Get around

Much of the Old City is only accessible by walking, because of very narrow streets and steps in the road. This is not a great inconvenience because the Old City is only about 1 kilometer across.

The Old City is a maze of twisty alleyways and it's difficult to keep your bearings even with a map. Then again, getting lost is half the fun - you can't get too lost due to the small size.

See

Christian Quarter

The Christian Quarter is the largest of Jerusalem's quarters, and is home to a bewildering array of Christian churches ranging from Ethiopian Orthodox to Swedish Lutheran.

• Church of the Holy Sepulchre - dark, somewhat confusing, and decrepit, the Holy Sepulchre holds more historical value than spiritual value for most people. Marking the traditional site where Jesus Christ was believed to have been crucified, and nearby buried, the church has a fractious history that has shaped its eclectic architecture. This history continues to the current day, where parts of the Holy Sepulchre are controlled by several different branches of the Christian Church, who have historically been somewhat at odds with each other (to the point of occasional fisticuffs beteen monks and priests!) Thus, its historical value is as a demonstrative monument to the highs, lows, and internal disputes in the history of the Christian Church.

• the Evangelical Lutheran Church [1]

• the Tower of David (also known as "the Citadel") [2] - includes the Museum of the History of Jerusalem, right next to the Jaffa Gate

Muslim Quarter

The Muslim Quarter blends seamlessly into the Christian Quarter. This is the workaday Old City, where thousands still live, work, shop and play.

• the Noble Sanctuary (Arabic Haram al-Sharif) is the key attraction of the Muslim Quarter, built on the presumed site of the Jewish Temple and hence also commonly known to Jews and Chrsitians as the Temple Mount. The site is extremely controversial and access is strictly regulated. Non-Muslims are not allowed in on Fridays and during prayer hours and may well be shut off entirely depending on the political situation of the day, but it's well worth making an effort to get in. The only non-Muslim entrance to the Sanctuary is through a tunnel from the western side. Entry to the Sanctuary itself is free, combined entry to the Dome of the Rock, the al-Aqsa mosque and the Islamic Museum (no separate tickets available) costs NIS 36.

• • the Dome of the Rock (Arabic: قبة الصخرة, Qubbat As-Sakhrah) marks the spot from where most Muslims believe the prophet Muhammed ascended to heaven on the back of his fabulous horse, before returning to earth to record his vision. This association has made the building (together with the neighbouring al-Aqsa Mosque) the third-holiest Muslim site after Mecca and Medina. Built 687-691 by the ninth Caliph, Abd al-Malik, the Dome is probably the most spectacular building in the Old City, topped with a dazzling golden dome visible far away, the interior layered with glittering ceramics, mosaic and Arabic calligraphy. Despite common conceptions, the Dome is not a mosque, but protects - beneath its high ceiling - the large Rock which, alternatively, Abraham was to sacrifice Isaac, David bought as a threshing floor from Aruanah the Jebusite, and from which Mohammed ascended - a small indentation was reportedly left by his foot. It is a site of some ongoing controversy: most Jews and many scholars regard the stone as that which lay beneath the high altar of the Temple, the most recent version of which was destroyed by the Romans in the year 70.
  • the al-Aqsa Mosque is a fairly typical mosque at the southern end of the enclosure that pales in comparison to the Dome of the Rock
  • the immediately adjacent Islamic Museum has a few poorly labeled swords and pieces of calligraphy, and is barely worth visiting even though entrance is included in your ticket

• the Church of Saint Anne

Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter feels distinctly different from the rest of the Old City: razed by the Jordanians after the partition of the former British Mandate of Palestine in 1948, most buildings in it have been rebuilt from scratch and, despite strict laws mandating the use of Jerusalem sandstone in all facades, look and feel new. In a somewhat tit-for-tat move, the current wide plaza in front of the Western Wall was created by bulldozing a section of the Muslim Quarter.

• the Western Wall (also known, incorrectly, as the "Wailing Wall") - the holiest site in Judaism, the Western Wall dates from 2000 years ago. It marks the western edge of the Temple Mount, where the holy Jewish Temple was located before it was destroyed, and where, long before that, the prophet Abraham apparently demonstrated his devotion to God. The Temple Mount is occupied by the third holiest site in Islam - the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque. This leads to the current difficult situation, where large numbers of Jews and some Christians pray at the Western Wall. If they ventured onto the Mount itself, a religious conflict of monumental proportions might break out. Many supplicants at the wall insert written prayers into crevices between the large stones. While the wall is outdoors, it acts as a church and synagogue with a never-ending crowd of worshippers. The tradition of placing prayer written on the small piece of paper into a crack in the Wall is going back hundreds of years. [3]

• Jerusalem Archaeological Park [4] - the website provides an entertaining Flash-based presentation of this attraction adjacent to the Western Wall Plaza

Armenian Quarter

The Armenian Quarter is the smallest and quietest of the four. The quarter runs itself as a city within a city (within a city....), shutting all gates when night falls.

• The highlight of the Armenian Quarter is the St. James Cathedral. Even for non-believers an Armenian Orthodox mass here is a sight, sound and incense-laden smell to remember. With hundreds of colorful hanging oil lamps, make sure to find out if there is an Armenian Holy Day where they will all be lit up during your visit.

There is also a small and interesting museum in the quarter, as well as a library and many other community structures.

See also: Armenian Patriarchate Website - http://www.armenian-patriarchate.org/

Outside the Walls

• the Church of the Dormition on Mount Zion

• City of David: South of the Haram (Temple Mount) - Exit the Old City through Dung Gate (by the Kotel), turn left, and then take the first street on your right. A sign and an Israeli flag mark the entrance to the City of David. A small section of the excavations is open to the public, showing the house of Ahiel and the infamous toilet seat, Admission free. (NB: Women should not go here alone). Open Sunday through Thursday, 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m.; Friday, 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m.; closed Saturday

• Warren’s Shaft/Hezekiah’s Tunnel: City of David area - You may also visit Warren's Shaft and splash through Hezekiah’s Tunnel in this area, but wear clothes suitable for getting wet if you plan to go through the tunnel. The depth of the water varies, and sometimes it can reach waist height or even higher. It takes about half an hour to walk through, and the ceiling is high in most places. It’s a good idea to take a flashlight. Before entering the tunnel, you can also visit the various tombs you will see in the valley. Admission several shekels for Warren’s Shaft and Hezekiah’s Tunnel. (NB: Women should not go here alone). Open Sunday through Thursday, 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m.; Friday, 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m.; closed Saturday

• Rockefeller Archaeological Museum [5] - located in East Jerusalem, just outside the Old City walls - the Lion, Herod and Damascus Gates (in that order) are most convenient for access

Mount of Olives / Garden of Gethsemane

NB: While there are many interesting things to see in this area, there are certain precautions that you should take very seriously. Women should not explore here, either alone or in pairs, without being accompanied by a man. You should take no more cash than you need, nor should you take your travel documents, as muggings and attacks are not uncommon here. Neither should you leave a rental car unattended in this area. Remember to dress modestly when visiting.

The best way to get to the Mount of Olives is by sherut from Damascus Gate. Begin at the top of the Mount and walk down to the bottom, where you will end up at the Garden of Gethsemane. From there, you can walk up the hill to the Old City’s Lion’s Gate. The following points of interest are listed from the top of the Mount to the bottom. Note that admission to most of the churches is either free or costs only a few shekels. It is customary to make a small donation for the upkeep of the church as you leave. Steimatzky’s bookstore in West Jerusalem carries a very good pamphlet called “The Mount of Olives” that includes an account of the history of each church there, in addition to readings from the Gospels and notes from pilgrims to the area. It also covers Bethphage and the Church of St. Lazarus in Bethany.

• Chapel of the Ascension - This chapel is located in the courtyard of a mosque. Entrance is allowed at the guard’s discretion. Admission 2 NIS. Open Saturday through Thursday, 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m.

• Paternoster - From here you can walk to the small church at Bethphage or to see the view by Seven Arches. Open Monday through Saturday, 8:30–11:45 a.m., 3:00–4:45 p.m.

• Tombs of the Prophets - A path from the hotel leads to this huge tomb complex (though, sadly, they did not belong to Haggai and Malachi!). Admission several shekels, Open Sunday through Friday, 8:00 a.m–3:00 p.m.

• Dominus Flevit - A small collection of artifacts from the excavations here are housed at the site. Open daily 8:00 a.m.–noon, 2:30–5:00 p.m.

• Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Tel.: 6284371) - The road continues past this church with the gold “onion” domes, where Prince Philip’s mother is buried. Open Tuesday and Thursday, 10:00 a.m.–noon (call to double check open times)

• Church of All Nations / Garden of Gethsemane - This church is located at the bottom of the Mount and is surrounded by the Garden of Gethsemane. Open 8:00 a.m.–noon, 2:30–6:00 p.m.

• Tomb of Mary / Grotto of Gethsemane - These are located across the road from the Church of All Nations. Open 8:00 a.m.–noon, 2:30–5:30 p.m.

Do

• Walk the Via Dolorosa - the "way of sorrows", this is the pilgrim's walk supposedly retracing the last steps of Jesus on his way to crucifixion. The walk starts near the Lion Gate on the eastern side of the city and finishes at the Suq, about 0.25 Km from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Many people hanging around the beginning of the Via will give you a tour for a small fee, accompanied by informed commentary, but this is not necessarily the best plan. Paying a token amount to get yourself started is not a bad plan, but if you have a guide book you can likely handle it better on your own from there, due to the crowded and winding nature of the Via through the Old City's narrow streets. As well, not all the guides are as respectful of the religious sites along the Via Dolorosa as they could be, sometimes walking headlong into occupied churches in mid-service.

• The Ramparts Walk lets you walk on the city wall itself around the Old City and is an excellent introduction to Jerusalem. The walk is in three segments, from Dung Gate to Jaffa Gate, from Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate, and from Damascus Gate to the Lion Gate, for a total distance of 4 km. You can buy your ticket and enter at any of the first three, but not the Lion Gate. The section from the Lion Gate to Dung Gate (past the Temple Mount) is closed. Note that it is not advisable to walk this alone or after dark, as the occasional mugging and rape has been reported.

• Attend a church service, if you're that way inclined.... For Christian services and addresses of churches (most denominations are represented in Jerusalem), call the Christian Information Centre, Jaffa Gate, telephone 6272692, open Monday through Saturday, 8:30 p.m.–1:00 p.m.

Buy

The Suq El Attaria is the primary shopping area in the Arab quarters of the Old City. You will find shops ranging from souvenirs to greengrocers to traditional clothing.

The Old City of Jerusalem is also known for its Armenian ceramics. With white and a rich blue as the base colors, and bright paintings on them, they are a distinct souvenir. The street signs throughout the old quarter are made of Armenian ceramics, and a few shops will produce custom nameplates and tile signs with a short turnaround time.

The Cardo is the most prestigious shopping precinct in the Jewish Quarter. Built on the excavated remains of late Roman era Jerusalem (many of which can still be seen), the shops here specialise in arts and crafts, jewelry, Judaica, Dead Sea beauty products, quality souvenirs and T-shirts, amongst other things.

Eat

Throughout the Old City, street vendors offer many varieties of local foods, like falafel and shwarma (barbequed meat skewers).

Jewish Quarter

• the Quarter Cafe - has a good view over the Western Wall and Temple Mount
• Shalom Felafel, 36 Bezalel Street, open Sunday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Kosher.

Christian Quarter

• Abu Shanab Pizza. 35 Latin Patriarchate Rd (first left past the Tourist Information Office inside Jaffa Gate, on the right hand side of the street), (02) 626 0752. Mo–Sa 10am–11pm. Licensed. Cheap. A great place with marvellous atmosphere and pizzas that, even if they're not authentically Italian, at least try hard and certainly fill you up. During happy hour (summer 6–7 pm) you get two beers for the price of one (bottled Taybeh included).

Armenian Quarter

• the Armenian Tavern, 79 Armenian Orthodix Patriarchate Road (entering Jaffa Gate, turn right at the Citadel / Tower of David and continue straight down the street, past the post office - the restaurant is on the right hand side, down a small flight of stairs), tel 02 627 3854, open Tu-Su 11am - 10.30pm, reservations required Fr-Sa evenings, takes credit cards, moderate prices (NIS 30-60) - traditional Armenian food in a traditional and atmospheric setting, a Crusader period arched cellar complete with indoor fountain, wooden tables and the ubiquitous hand-painted Armenian tiles. Alcoholic beverages available.

Muslim Quarter

Some of the best and cheapest falafel and shwarma joints can found on Saladin Street, just outside Damascus Gate.

• Abu Shukri, 63 El Wad Road, Muslim Quarter. Famed all over Israel for the quality of the hummus, but all Middle Eastern specialities available. Open 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. daily. Not kosher.

• Jerusalem Star, 32 El Wad Road, Muslim Quarter. Middle eastern dishes. Open 10:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. daily. Not kosher.

Drink

Cafés offer the thick, dark Arabic style of coffee. The locals gather here and play backgammon.

Sleep

Hostels

There are a large number (but occasionally somewhat dodgy) of backpacker hostels in the Old City:

• the Petra Hotel and Hostel [6], 1 David Street, telephone 6286618. Roof 15 NIS; Dorm 23 NIS; Private Room 180 NIS, no curfew - just inside Jaffa Gate, magnificent views across the Old City to the Dome of the Rock
• the Tabasco Hostel, 8 Aqabat Teqreh Street, telephone 6281101. Roof 12 NIS; Dorm 15 NIS; Private Room 70 NIS, no curfew or lock out

Hospices

A number of religiously-based hostels or hospices also exist - a more sedate option (but you will need to be well-behaved, at least on-site!):

• Lutheran Hostel, St Mark's Road, Christian Quarter, telephone 6282120. Dorm (single sex) 25NIS; Single 137 NIS; Double 231NIS. Lock out between 9:00 a.m. and noon; curfew 10:30 p.m.
• the Austrian Hospice [7], 37 Via Dolorosa, Muslim Quarter, telephone 6274636. Dorm $13; Single $46; Double $72. Lock out between 9:00 a.m. and noon; curfew midnight.

Contact

A plethora of internet cafes has opened throughout the Old City, especially in the Christian and Muslim Quarters - you will have no difficulty locating one as you wander through the narrow streets and suqs. Prices vary, so shop about.....

External links

• The Jerusalem Website - official page of the Jerusalem Municipality

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