Karlstejn
From World travel guide
Karlštejn Castle is located approximately 20km west of Prague. It is the most visited and one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic. Construction of the castle was completed in 1365 under the reign of Charles the IV. There is a national forest around the castle with some very nice hiking. Nearby in the village of Svatý Jan Pod Skalou you can visit a beautiful monastery including the 'holy cave' that it was built upon.
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Understand
While Karlštejn is one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic, it is also the most exploited by the tourist industry. The village below the castle is filled with tacky suveneir stalls, very expensive restaurants, and to complete the carnival an 'erotic city' porn shop. Fortunately you can make your visit a lot more enjoyable by taking a 13km hiking trip in the (totally unexploited) forests around Karlštejn, hopefully relieving you of some of your unease after visiting the Castle itself.
Get in
You can take a train from the main station (Hlavní nádraží) in Prague to Karlštejn. Trains run every hour starting at 6:25 in the morning (6:25, 7:25, 8:25, ...) For groups of 3 or larger the cost for a return ticket is 30kč per person.
Get around
Everything is within walking distance. When you arrive at Karlštejn you cannot actually see the castle but just follow the flow of tourists and you'll get there. The village starts about 300 meters from the train stop, the castle is a short (but slightly tiring) half kilometer hike up a large hill
Do
- The Castle
- All of the tourists aside, the castle itself is really impressive. Once you arrive at the Castle you can enter within the walls for free but access to the inside of the castle requires paying for a guided tour (200kč). For opening hours, reservations, etc. visit www.hradkalstejn.cz. Unless you are particularly interested in Ancient Holy Roman Empire history you may want to limit yourself to walking on the castle parapets, enjoying the view and reading the outdoor information boards with the castle's history. This will give you more time for hiking to Svatý Jan Pod Skalou which is a bit more authentic Czech experience.
- Svatý Jan Pod Skalou
- The name of this monastery translates to 'Saint John under the rock', which is quite an apt description for the monastery. The monastery was built on a natural spring at the base of a 100m sheer cliff (the cliff being crowned with a large cross). Prior to the monastery being built a 'saintly' hermit took up residence in a deep cave next to the spring where he 'fought great battles with satanic spirits.' The monastery is open daily, donations are requested at the door (but not obligatory). Don't miss the little door directly opposite from the main entrance, this is the entrance to the 'holy' cave. The cave contains 5 large rooms, all of which have been modified for religious purposes. One part becoming a crypt, another having a large alter, others for saintly relics, etc. Before entering pick up one of the laminated explanation papers laid out on the pews next to the door. They are done in all of the major European languages and explain what each room in the cave was use for. Outside the monastery if you look around you'll find the natural spring located in a small grotto just around the corner from the Monastery entrance. The spring water is drinkable and quite tasty.
- Hiking
- The best trip to Karlštejn starts with a trip to the castle, a 7km hike to Svatý Jan Pod Skalou, visit the monastery, have lunch in the pub there and then hike 5km to Srbsko and catch your train back to Prague. If you catch your train from Prague at 10:25 in the morning you should finish around 6:00 in the evening (if you don't take the tour of the castles interior). In Srbsko the train station is on the opposite side of the river from the village (across the blue bridge). While you are waiting for your train there is a nice little pub you can sit at and drink beer.
- The trails are all clearly marked so it should not be difficult to find your way. To get to Svatý Jan Pod Skalou you need to take the red trail, the trail head for which starts just outside of the castle walls. The trail is marked with a red and white square usually painted on trees and/or walls along the trail. From Svatý Jan Pod Skalou to get to Srbsko follow the yellow trail markers.
- Rock Climbing
- Some of the best rock climbing near Prague is in Srbsko and Svatý Jan Pod Skalou.
- Little and big america mine
- For the more adventurous, there are also several open pit abandoned mines that have filled up with water and have become a popular place for Czech's to go swimming. They are a bit difficult to find but if you ask around and have a good map you should be able to find them.
Buy
Karlštejn has shops selling Czech garnet, Bohemian crystal, tasteless t-shirts, wares from local blacksmiths, etc.
If you want to buy food for hiking there is a small village style grocery store about a third the way up the hill. It is located on your left (heading up the hill). Don't buy any food, drinks or water from the small shops at the base of the village. They have extremely over inflated prices, a bottle of water costs 45kč (normal price is 12kč). Find the small village style grocery store!!!
Eat
Around the castle there are plenty of expensive restaurants but you'd be best to avoid them. If you are not planning on hiking and want to eat in Karlštejn, you're best option is to get on the red marked trail (trail head is right next to the entrance in the castle walls at the top of the hill, marked with a red and white square marker usually painted on a tree or wall), walk down the trail (going down hill) about 300 meters, you'll come to a road on which there is a nice authentic Czech pub.
In Svatý Jan Pod Skalou there is a very nice pub 200 meters from the monastery. The prices are reasonable, the beer is good and the food is very Czech.
Sleep
If you want to camp, there is a very crowded campsite near Karlštejn but it is not recommended that you stay here. If you hop on the train and go one stop further down there is a very nice campsite in the village of Srbsko (about 5km from Karlštejn) with a little outdoor restaurant serving traditional 'klobasa' and other Czech camping foods. You can also walk to the campsite along the Berounka river.
Get out
Trains run every hour, you can pick them up either in Srbsko or in Karlštejn. If you are in Svatý Jan Pod Skalou, you can hike to Srbsko (5 km) or buses run from the village to Prague every two hours or so. Check the bus schedule at the bus stop or ask at the restaurant when the next bus will be to Prague.
