Ko Phi Phi
From World travel guide
Koh Phi Phi is a pair of islands in Krabi Province.
Contents |
Understand
There are actually two islands here: Koh Phi Phi Don is the populated island, while Ko Phi Phi Lai, also known as Ko Phi Phi Leh, is the small, unpopulated island to the south filmed in the movie "The Beach". Nest collectors protect it for their lucrative trade in Bird Nest Soup. Although uninhabited (expect for the mentioned nest collectors and a few Maya bay wardens), expect plenty of tourists. "The Beach" has made this island overly popular.
Although rapidly becoming less and less attractive due to the masses of tourists as well as the constructions on the island, it still is a very beautiful place to be at. It's one of those places everybody should have been at once in his lifetime. The tsunami has temporarily haltet this development while the island is being rebuilt. Koh Phi Phi is frequented more by backpackers and less by package tourists these days. Expect this phase to be over by 2007.
Get in
Boats leave Phuket as well as Krabi on a regular basis. Get your ticket at a local travel agency, since they will then arrange for free transport to the pier. Prices are 300 Baht to/from Koh Phi Phi from/to Phuket, Krabi or Ko Lanta. There are open tickets for 400 Baht, meaning that you will fix the day at a travel agency on the island. If you don't yet know to which port you'll return, only buy the single ticket.
Get around
Taxi boats will bring you to all beaches of the islands. However as long as you stay on Phi Phi Don, you can walk to any beach as well. For a ride from Ton Sai to Long Beach, expect to pay 40 Baht per person in the afternoon, and at least 80 Baht at night. To have a complete boat for yourself, expect to pay at least 100 Baht.
Wheel barrows are used to transport all goods on the island, including your luggage if you like. Expect free transport from the pier to your room, but not neccesarily in the inverse direction.
See
- Walk the (long) trail or (short) staircase to the highest point of the island for a nice view.
- Wander in the tsunami wastelands guessing the location of former luxury resorts by the occasional floor tiles in the grass.
- Discover the makeshift quonset dwellings inhabited by surviving locals on the reverse side of P.P. paradise.
Do
Take a longtail boat to the east side of the island during low tide. Swim to the hole in the coral, climb through and walk the path to "The Beach". Take a bit of trash back with you to keep it pristine.
Water directly around the island is disappointingly murky and not good for diving. The beach on the other side of the island, across from where the boats land, is slightly nicer.
- Snorkelling - There are two rocks in swimming distance off Long Beach, where Blacktip Reef Shark can be seen. Guided tours to do that are organized by dive schools. Dive schools take snorkellers on dive boats, but expect to see a hint of the underwater marvel visible to scuba divers only.
- Diving - This island has many dive shops, and some very good dive locations. Prices are regulated on this island, so expect to pay the same everywhere. Good diving spots away from the main islands are Shark Point and Anemone Reef.
Buy
Most goods are brought in by boat, so most things are less original and more expensive than on the main land. However, there are a few shops that manufacture their goods on the island. Look more closely.
Eat
Food on Ko Phi Phi is not as spectacular as it commonly is in Thailand, because most ingredients have to be brought by boat from the mainland. For example, it is seldom the encounter a really fresh leaf of salad. Nevertheless there are some restaurants that manage to serve surprisingly tasty food given the limited possibilities on the island.
- Papaya - a small green stall opposite the Reggae Bar. Serves authentic thai food, hot and spicy as it should be.
- Oasis - More good thai food and great cocktails. Waiting can be long but laid back customers don't mind.
- Cosmos - Italian restaurant that deserves the name, two outlets on the island.
Drink
- Reggae Bar - A popular bar, organizes mock Muay Thai fights almost every night.
- Apache Bar - A multistory bar looking onto Ton Sai, frequented by locals.
- Beach Bar - Located right in the tsunami wastelands. Good choice for those looking to have quiet drink.
- Carlitos Bar - An institution among bars on the island is up to speed again. Relaxed drinks on the beach served by amiable waitresses.
Many bars offer similar entertainment, cabarets and fire shows (performed by the same people). Posters and flyers advertising those are also drawn by the same guy presumably. Control of the night scene by ladyboys is less obvious than in other places in Thailand.
Sleep
There are plenty of accommodation possibilities starting from 100 Baht and going far above 7000 Baht. Prices triple (!) in season (starting November 1), and they can be an order of magnitude lower if you are willing to stay in the second row (instead of right on the beach) or live in ruins left by the tsunami. Bargaining is possible, just start walking from resort to resort, and everybody will notice you really do mean to get the cheapest place.
Get out
Daily (in season several times a day) ferries to Phuket, Krabi, Ko Lanta.
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