Kotohira
From World travel guide
Kotohira (琴平) is a one-horse town known solely as the site of the Kompira Shrine, a large shrine complex in the north-western part of Shikoku island, Japan.
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Understand
Kompira (also Konpira) is the oldest and most revered of Shikoku's shrines. Until the Meiji Restoration, it was in fact (mostly) a Buddhist temple, but was turned into a Shinto shrine during the enforced segregation of the era. Formally known as Kotohira-gū (金刀比羅宮), nearly everybody calls its by the half-familiar, half-respectful name Kompira-san (金比羅さん) instead. A popular site of pilgrimage among the Japanese, expect crowds and megaphone-led tour groups, particularly on weekends and holidays.
Get in
Kotohira is on the JR Dosan Line (土讃線) from Tadotsu all the way to Kochi down south.
From Okayama on Honshu, Kotohira can be reached in one hour by taking the hourly Nanpu Limited Express train (¥3160). Slower local trains take between 90 minutes and 2 hours and cost ¥1300 (change trains once).
From Takamatsu, rapid trains on the Dosan line depart hourly between 10 AM and 8 PM, reaching Kotohira in 49 minutes (¥830). Or, you can use the private Kotoden Kotohira Line (琴電琴平線), which departs from Takamatsu-Chikko station at 0 and 30 minutes past the hour (one hour, ¥610).
Get around
The shrine entrance is an easily walked few hundred meters south from the train stations. True to its name, the shrine is built on a hill and it's a fairly steep climb of 800 steps all the way to the top. For a taste of medieval luxury, porters can carry you up the hill in a palanquin for even steeper prices (¥6000 and up).
See
The sole sight in town is the Kompira Shrine. The sights below are listed in order as you ascend the steps.
- The Great Gate (大門 Daimon), halfway up the hill, marks your entry into the shrine complex.
- A somewhat lackluster Treasure Hall (宝物館 Hōmotsukan), entry ¥500, is to your right soon after. On a hot summer day the free air-conditioned resting area with drinking water, at the top of the next flight of steps, is likely to be more appealing.
- Asahi Shrine (旭社 Asahi-sha), which dates back to 1837, is the largest, oldest and most impressive of Konpira's many shrine halls, in ornately decorated unpainted wood.
- The Main Shrine (本宮 Hon-gū) is the centerpiece of the temple complex, with a large square in front and many buildings packed in a cluster.
- Izutama Shrine (厳魂神社 Izutama-jinja), better known simply as the Inner Shrine (奥社, Oku-sha), is another 583 steps up from the main shrine. Far fewer visitors make it all the way up here, and once up top you are rewarded with nice views over the city.
Buy
From the moment you step off the train, you'll be visually bombarded by shrieking yellow advertisements for magical Konpira amulets at ¥800 a pop, available throughout the shrine.
Eat & Drink
Kagawa prefecture is famed for its Sanuki udon wheat noodles and you'll find no shortage of shops hawking them on the road and stairway to the shrine. Konpira's very own style, creatively known as Konpira udon, is less than innovatively composed by pouring soy and boniko flakes on top of your noodles. Wash it down with the local microbrew, inevitably called Konpira Beer.
Sleep
Most people choose to day-trip from Takamatsu or Okayama.
External link
- Konpira Shrine (in Japanese)
