La Palma
From World travel guide
La Palma is an island governed by Spain in the Canary Islands. It is near Morocco, Cape Verde and the archipelagos of Azores Islands and Madeira Islands, both Portuguese. The nickname of the island is "La Isla Bonita" (the beautiful island).
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Regions
The other islands in the Canary chain are:
Understand
The island has a small population of just under a hundred thousand. It has two major ports (Santa Cruz de la Palma and Los Llanos) and an international airport. There are also regular flights and ferries to Tenerife.
Ethnically the population is mostly Hispanic (actually a mix of Spanish, Berber and Portuguese), with an increasing number of African and Eastern European immigrants.
The island exports bananas and tobacco, and hosts a major international astronomical observatory.
Get around
A hire car is the best option for discovering the remote wilderness regions. Reputable companies include CIcar and Autos Taburiente.
By train
By bus
Buses are the most common method of public transportation around the islands. Mile per mile they are expensive while compared to mainland Spain but you are not going to travel really far away. Do not expect the drivers to know more than a couple of sentences in English or German, though they would try to be helpful.
By taxi
Taxis can be expensive, and inside a city they are not worth the money unless you are in a real hurry or can't balance yourself after a shopping day. It is unlikely that you would be cheated.
By ship
If you want to travel between the islands a good option might be to take a ship if you are in any particular hurry, specially between close by islands. Most ferries are now quite modern and cheap. The most important companies are Fred Olsen, Transmediterránea and Armas.
By plane
If you are afraid of the sea or get sick just by staring at a ship a plane is what you need, and that usually means a turboprop ATR-72 by one of the local airlines like Binter or Islas Airways. They are perfectly safe and adequately fast as you are likely to spend more time at the airport than in the plane itself.
The airport on La Palma is called "Santa Cruz de La Palma, Canarias" (airport code SPC) -- not to be confused with other similarly named airports around the world.
See
There are a few nice towns, but the main attraction is the countryside. Spectacular volcanic landscapes reaching up above the clouds with dense vegetation in the valleys make for some spectacular hiking. The highest point on the island, La Roque de los Muchachos (2426m -- about 8000 feet), is easily accessible by car in summer and the views from there provide a good introduction to the geography of the island (note that access is restricted at night as this is the site of a major international astronomical observatory -- always read the signposts -- also note that roads and trails are often impassible in winter due to snow). Trails are well signposted and walking maps are available from the tourist office in Santa Cruz.
Do
Los Tilos walk - if possible get four wheel taxi up to start of walk. Then walk around the canal (what in Madeira would be called a levada) following the contours of a steep tree-lined barranco walking through 13 tunnels (stooping to avoid hitting your head). Tunnel number 12 is wet inside - one guide book described it as like a power-shower. Then down through the laurisilva forest (a tiring but stunning descent of about 1000m). Also don't miss the lookout - a volcanic dyke about two feet wide with sheer drops on both sides, but protected by handrails with totally stunning 360 degree views - makes Symond's Yat look a bit pathetic. Details of the walk are in Walk! La Palma and also in the Sunflower book guide though take the times given for the walk with a pinch of salt - this took us about 6 hours. But well worth the effort. See picture at right.
Ruta del Volcanoes - part of the GR 131 long distance path - along the length of the Cumbre Vieja, a route with fabulous views all round, and with volcanic craters for most of the length. Again, quite a demanding walk on a hot day, and dust kicked up by walking companions gets everywhere, but a stunningly memorable walk. For more pics see external links below.
Eat
beinmesabe - means 'tastes me good' and it does - stewed almonds but very sweet.
Drink
Espresso with sweetened condensed milk, and sometimes a shot of alcoholic liquor is a local speciality.
Sleep
The campsite in the Caldera in the center of the island must be booked months in advance in order to guarantee a permit in the summer. The campsite is only accessible on foot along a trail of several kilometres.
Hostal Canarias is a cheap, modern and clean option in Santa Cruz.
Can recommend Casa Alijibes in Las Tricias - the best equipped holiday house I have stayed in - the publicity photos don't do it justice, and the owners were very generous with food etc.
Stay safe
112 is the common emergency number.
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