Rai Leh
From World travel guide
Rai Leh, also commonly known as Railay, is a small village located on the Andaman Coast of Thailand, in Krabi Province. Rai Leh is primarily known as a rock climbing hot spot, with attracts climbers from all over the world to climb its superb towering limestone.
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Get in
Rai Leh is in Krabi Province, South Thailand. There are several options for transportation from Bangkok, but as Rai Leh is a peninsula surrounded by mountains and oceans, final access can only be by boat. Long-tails depart from Ao Nang (10 minutes, 60B/person) and Krabi town (30 minutes) on demand, making those towns the gateways to Rai Leh. It is also possible to access Rai Leh via ferries that run between Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi, and Phuket.
A cheap but comfortable option is the overnight train from Bangkok to Surat Thani, where one can pick up a bus ticket to Krabi. Other options would be a bus direct from Bangkok, or a flight to Phuket with a ferry or bus to Ao Nang.
Get around
The Rai Leh peninsula is composed of three primary landmarks:
- Rai Leh West: A fine beach of white sand and shallow water, where most long-tails arrive from Ao Nang
- Rai Leh East: The mangrove side of the peninsula, where long-tails to/from Krabi town will be found.
- Phra Nang: Another fine beach of white sand on the southern tip of the peninsula.
Rai Leh is considered to be all of the peninsula and between any of these landmarks it is a quick 5-10 minute walk. The village itself is a pedestrian's dream, there are no cars and nothing is further than a 10 minute walk. Uneven bumpy walkways make even bicycles impractical.
See
- Diamond Cave, north of Rai Leh East. A path leads uphill to Diamond Cave, one of the only strictly sight-seeing destinations at Rai Leh. A nominal entrance fee pays for a short walk along the boardwalk that leads through the cave. Though not breathtakingly large, Diamond Cave is quite beautiful, with several particularly interesting rock formations. The whole thing is easily viewed in about fifteen minutes.
- Phra Nang Shrine, north end of Phra Nang Beach. Dedicated to the spirit of the drowned princess (phra nang) who gave the beach her name, this small shrine in a small cave is notable primarily for the dozens of carved red-tipped phalluses donated by fishermen seeking her favor.
Do
Rock Climbing
Perhaps the best sport rock climbing area in the world. With over a thousand bolted routes up limestone faces with breathtaking views over the ocean. If you are an avid rock climber, this is one place you do not want to miss.
- Required Climbing Gear: Rai Leh and area is all sport climbing. Beyond a 60m rope, sixteen quickdraws, your harness, shoes and a lot of chalk, you won't need much else.
- Guides: Rai Leh and Tonsai have several guide operators with services ranging from introductory rock climbing courses to rent-a-belay partner.
- Guide Books: There are no fewer than three different guide books published by the local guide shops. The books provide excellent directions and route finding. They are available in a variety of languages and most have been updated around 2004. Most of the books can be ordered online, directly from the guide shop or your local climbing store might have it in stock.
Kayaking
While not as good as at Phang Nga, the kayaking around the peninsula at Rai Leh affords a great alternative to climbing and a stunning view of the area. Several of the limestone islets off Phra Nang beach have sea caves eroded into their bases, including a few large enough to offer opportunities to beach the kayaks and explore. Paddling into caves and through subterranean passages is particularly interesting, but watch out for low, jagged ceilings. For those with more ambition, a short open-water crossing (about one hour of steady, heavy paddling) leads to the private island of Ko Poda with beautiful beaches that are nearly isolated.
Several bungalow resorts on the Rai Leh West side of the peninsula have sea kayaks available for rental at reasonable rates (approximately 600/1000 baht for half-day/full-day rental) which include life-vests. The kayaks are simple two-person plastic models, but perform fine in the millpond-smooth water of the bay. A half-day is probably plenty long enough to explore the immediate environs of Rai Leh. A bottle of water, a hat and plenty of sun protection are essential!
Trekking
Rai Leh itself does not offer a great many trekking opportunities, as the peninsula is so tiny. The one interesting and undeveloped area is the jungle atop the limestone towers that make up the club-shaped southern end of the peninsula. Along the paved path that runs from Rai Leh East to Phra Nang beach, a so-called "trail" leads up a slippery, rocky embankment to the jungle-covered plateau. A narrow, indistinct trail cirles the top of the southern tower, with a left turn offering access to the highest point (accessible via a sheer face and thus navigable only with climbing gear) as well as a fantastic lookout point over the peninsula. A right turn on the path leads downward into a hidden glen, from which one can access the secret lagoon called Sa Phra Nang or Holy Princess Pool. The route from this glen to the lagoon leads down a steep, rocky ravine, and the path is covered with slippery red clay, making it quite treacherous even for the experienced. The technique is not so much climbing as scrambling, and the knotted nylon ropes are often more dangerous than they are helpful. The lagoon itself is breathtakingly beautiful, but try not to step in, as the soft bottomless muck has quite a penchant for trekkers' footwear.
Diving
Snorkeling
Buy
Rai Leh offers two general convenience stores with various essentials at reasonable prices, considering shipment costs to what is essentially an island. Though most shoppers (souvenir or other) will be better satisfied in nearby Ao Nang, clothing, souvenirs, beachwear and such are all also available in various small shops near Rai Leh East. There are no real grocery vendors, so meals are limited to the restaurants, though some small snack items are available.
Eat
Rai Leh has a variety of restaurants to choose from. In general, the food is what you would expect for southern Thailand, tasty and inexpensive. Though unfortunately, none of the area's restaurants are remarkable, for Thailand at least, in character or quality.
- Rai Leh West has four restaurants: one for each of the three hotels ont the beach and a smaller restaurant near CoCo's bar. All offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner along the beach with a lovely view of the surroundings.
- Rai Leh East has more restaurants and the variety is much greater though none offer the scenery of the west beach. Restaurants near Diamond Cave may be an exception where they offer an impressive view of the bay from their position higher up the hill.
Drink
- CoCo's, Rai Leh West. The only stand-alone bar around, with a couple of tables and several beach mats for you to lay out on the beach during the evenings. Several bars are also attached to the hotel restaurants. All are situated on the beach and are quite pleasant for a relaxing sunset cocktail.
Rai Leh East offers more in the way of energetic bars with dance music. These bars can be found near the Diamond Cave Bungalows.
Sleep
Rai Leh is for two types of groups. Honeymooners/families or rock climbing backpackers. You will find accommodation to suit both types. Either expensive four star resorts or two star guesthouses. Prices typically double during high season (November 1 - May 1)
Budget
Most Rai Leh budget accommodation is found on east side of Rai Leh. Travellers looking for a larger variety of budget accommodation, i.e. wooden bungalows, are best to try neighbouring Ton Sai Beach — a ten minute walk or one minute long-tail ride — where rooms can be had for a few hundred Baht/night.
Mid-range
There are three beach front hotels/bungalow operators located on the west side of Rai Leh. While the prices vary greatly depending on room type, they're all priced a cut above your average budget operation.
- Railay Village Hotel. A collection of concrete bunglows. All come with their own private bathroom and your choice of fan or air con. The bungalows are quiet and set back off the beach among a garden setting. High season prices range from 500 - 2000 Baht for double occupancy.
- Sand Sea Hotel. Similar to Railay Village Hotel in that it is a collection of concrete bunglows, private bathroom, choice of fan or air con and quietly set back off the beach among a garden setting. The Sand Sea Hotel has marginally nicer decore, includes a good breakfast buffet and has a nice swimming pool. High season prices range from 1550 - 2500 Baht for double occupancy.
- Rai Lay Bay Resort & Spa Hotel. A combination of concrete bungalows and two story deluxe hotel rooms. The hotel rooms are marginally closer to the beach while the bungalows stretch almost across the entire peninsula through their gardens. Rai Lay Bay is larger than has marginally nicer decore, includes a good breakfast buffet and has a nice swimming pool. High season prices range from 1950 - 5900 Baht for double occupancy.
Splurge
- Rayavadee, Phra Nang, tel. +66-75-620740, [1]. The only resort on Phra Nang beach, with a jaw-droppingly gorgeous view and prices to match — you'll be looking at upwards of US$500 a night for a stay here. Alas, the would-be private beach is daily inundated with daytrippers from elsewhere in Krabi and hordes of vendors to cater to them, so if you want peace and quiet (during the day) you'd do best to look elsewhere.
Get out
The main mode of transportation to get out of Rai Leh is via long-tail. Regular ferries service Ko Lanta and Ko Phi Phi with more frequent service during the dry season (Nov - May). Ferry schedules can be found at any travel agent desk and are subject to change (of course) but this will give you an idea of the ferry connections for the Rai Leh, Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi routes.
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