Seattle/Downtown

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Packed between Elliott Bay, Pioneer Square, Belltown, and Capitol Hill, downtown Seattle unsuprisingly contains the city's business district and a number of large retailers. Also in downtown are the Central Library, the Paramount Theater, Pike Place Market, and several local and federal government administration buildings.

Pike Place Market
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Pike Place Market

Contents

Get in

Get around

By bus

Within the ride-free area in central downtown, buses are free during the daytime.

See

  • Pike Place Market [1] - An enormous working public market and popular tourist draw. Much good food to be had. The selection of fresh flowers and vegetables is excellent. And yes, they really do throw the fish around. Look for big blond Johnny Hahn on his portable piano, or one of the other regular street musicians on a more conventional street instrument. Leave the more trafficked areas behind and go downstairs to explore the creepy, dusty corridors full of obscure little shops. The weird, cramped Parrot Store even further downstairs (on 1st Avenue) is worth the $0.50 admission if you like parrots.
  • The Seattle Public Library's Central Library [2] - a dramatic glass and steel structure at 1000 Fourth Avenue in the heart of downtown Seattle, designed by Rem Koolhaas, that opened in May 2004. This is not an average public library; it's worth a separate Wikipedia article. Seattle Public Library's neighborhood branches are good, too, but not tourist attractions.
  • Smith Tower Observation Deck [3], 506 2nd Avenue - The Smith Tower (built in 1914) was Seattle's first skyscraper, and - briefly - the tallest building in the world outside Manhattan. Take the attendant-operated elevator to the observation deck on the 35th floor (and watch 33 office lobbies pass by through the translucent doors). From the observation deck, you'll find views of Elliot Bay, the mountains, the sports stadiums, downtown, Pioneer Square and other neighborhoods, and - yes - the Space Needle. The interior of the 35th floor contains the Chinese Room, with an ornate carved ceiling and a number of decorative flourishes imported from China in the early 20th century. Entry is only $5-6. The observation deck isn't open every day, check the schedule beforehand, or stop by and see if they're open when you're in the neighborhood.
  • Seattle Art Museum [4] - Just down the street from Pike Place Market, with an expansion underway (began 2004; expected opening Spring 2007) that will increase gallery space by about 75%.

Eat

  • Mama's Mexican Kitchen, 2234 2nd Ave between Blanchard and Bell (Belltown). Plentiful portions of decent food and a fun, festive atmosphere. Don't miss out on the Elvis Room!
  • Campagne Restaurant, 86 Pine St. Country cuisine in an urban setting brings the joys of coastal France to Seattle.
  • Chez Shea, 94 Pike St. Despite a change in ownership, one of Seattle's most romantic restaurants retains its intimate, elegant charm.
  • The Cheesecake Factory, 700 Pike St. More than thirty varieties of the signature dessert make up only a part of this chain restaurant's gigantic international menu.
  • Matt's in the Market, 94 Pike St Ste 32. Charming Market ambience and tasty seafood selections make for a fine low-key dining experience at this lilliputian spot.
  • Palace Kitchen [5], 2030 Fifth Ave. Tom Douglas' upscale saloon is a hit any time of day.

Drink

Bars and taverns

  • The Pink Door, 1919 Post Alley (Pike Place Market), reasonably good Italian restaurant, but it's a better bar, with a rather European market ambiance and a trellis-covered outdoor deck. Occasional cabaret-style live entertainment, no cover.
  • Cyclops, 2421 First Ave (Belltown). Good, hip (but not ultra-hip) bar, and not a bad restaurant either. Interesting neo-retro decor. The Ace Hotel is upstairs.
  • Tula's, 2214 Second Ave (Belltown). Tula's is a good and affordable venue for local jazz. Cover charges range from $5 to $12.
  • The Owl N' Thistle--808 Post Avenue (in Post Alley)--is a great Irish bar. A house band, nice regulars, and halibut burger to die for. Happy hour is 3-7, M-F.

Coffee

  • Starbucks Store #1, in the Pike Place Market. Who would have thought, when this unassuming place opened in 1971, that it would give rise to a global empire? So get in line, order a latte (no different from anywhere else in the world), and ponder the vagaries of history. And check out the uncensored mermaid.

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