Singapore/Little India
From World travel guide
Little India is, as the name promises, the center for the large Indian community in Singapore. While a rather sanitized version of the real thing, Little India retains its distinct identity without degenerating into a mere tourist attraction and is one of the most colorful and attractive places to visit in Singapore.
Little India's main drag is Serangoon Road, which starts at Rochor Canal Rd and continues northward to Serangoon itself. The action is tightly concentrated a few blocks on either side of the road, and can be easily covered on foot.
Contents |
Get in
The North-East MRT line's Little India and Farrer Park stations, near Serangoon Road, are convenient entry points into the area. Bugis station on the East-West line is also within walking distance (see Bugis).
See
Little India's primary attraction is the town itself. Here too you can find the gaily painted shophouses that are an icon of Singapore, but now the Chinese signs (almost) disappear to be replaced with Tamil, Hindi, Bengali and other more exotic Indian scripts. Stores hawk saris and gold bangles, spices and incense waft in from the doorways and Bollywood's latest soundtracks blare from every other alleyway.
- Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, 141 Serangoon Road, [1]. Little India's busiest and oldest temple, dating back to 1881 — although the present structure was completed in 1986. The temple is particularly busy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays.
Do
- The most extreme thing to do in Little India is to join the festival of Thaipusam, held yearly during the full moon in the lunar month of Thai (usually Jan/Feb). Devotees attach ornate shrines to their flesh with piercing hooks known as kavadi and walk across town in a day-long procession. The procession starts from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Serangoon Road.
- Around Deepavali, the Hindu festival of light, Serangoon Road is festively decorated (with lights, of course!) and open-air markets are set up to sell Deepavali goodies. Like Thaipusam, the exact date is set by the lunar calendar, but it takes place in October/November and is a public holiday.
- A more low-key event happens every Sunday evening when a half-million workers from the subcontinent turn up in Little India to hang out on their day off. Most of the crowd is friendly enough, but inevitably a few get into drunken fights and there's a heavy police presence about to keep a lid on things.
Buy
The central streets of Little India are packed with stalls selling all sorts of Indian goods. Two giant shopping centres, however, are unique not just in Little India but all of Singapore:
- Mustafa Centre, 145 Syed Alwi Road (off Serangoon Rd near Farrer Park MRT), [2]. Singapore's supreme discount department store: floor after floor of absolutely everything at rock-bottom prices, ranging from Rolex watches and washing machines to fresh mangoes, bags of lentils and tailored suits. Open 24 hours; the exchange counters in front are probably the best place in Singapore to exchange any currency you can think of (and many you can't) at competitive rates.
- Sim Lim Square, 1 Rochor Canal Road. Not actually in Little India but right across the street, Sim Lim is Singapore's Akihabara, a giant electronics mecca squeezed into one building, with hundreds upon hundreds of tightly packed specialist stores offering some of the most competitive prices for computers and consumers electronics in Asia. The first floor is for tourists, the upper floors and the back corridors are where the real deals can be found. Watch out for pricing tricks (omitting tax, selling included accessories separately, etc) and the occasional outright substitution fraud; unless you know exactly what you're doing and/or need something unusual, you might want to shop at Mustafa instead. Check out VR-Zone's pricelists, comparing shops in Sim Lim, before you go.
- Sim Lim Tower, just across the street, also has a few shops but pales in comparison.
The other shopping options in Little India cater more to the Indian market:
- Little India Arcade, Campbell Lane. A narrow pathway through a cluster of restored shophouses, filled to the brim with Indian clothing, accessories, incense and a rather good Indian sweet shop (#01-16).
- Tekka Mall, 2 Serangoon Road. Little India's first and only modern air-conditioned shopping mall, and rather soulless when compared to the bustle outside. The adjoining Foodmore food court is not bad if you want something other than Indian food though.
Eat
The thing to eat in Little India is obviously Indian food. Both southern and northern cuisines are well represented, food is cheap even by Singaporean standards, portions are generous and vegetarians in particular will have a field day. Note that these are authentic Indian places and people around you will be eating the way Indians do, namely by hand — it's best to shed your inhibitions and dig in, although cutlery can be provided on request.
Budget
- Jaggi's North Indian Cuisine, 34 Race Course Rd, [3]. Caters to meat-eaters too with a selection of tandoori dishes. Set meals from S$3, or mix and match at the counter.
- Komala Vilas, 76-78 Serangoon Road (and other branches around town), [4]. A Singaporean institution featuring purely vegetarian Indian food. Downstairs is fast food, head up for restaurant-style seating and serving. Sets start at less than S$2 and even the largest platter of breads and dips will cost less than S$5. Open daily 11.30 AM to 10.30 PM, although not all dishes are available all day.
- Saravana Bhavan, 36 Belilios Lane, [5]. The Singapore branch of a restaurant chain in Chennai, serving up vegetarian Indian food. Get a massive set lunch for $4.80 or just order your favorites for a few dollars a piece. Try the rava dosa, a steal at S$2.60.
Mid-range
- Banana Leaf Apolo, 54-58 Race Course Rd. A well-known place for all sorts of South Indian food; no prizes for guessing what serves as the plate. Most visitors come here for the fish head curry, even the "small" size is enough for 3-4 and will cost you S$18, plus S$2.50 a head for rice, pappadams and dips. Open daily 10 AM to 10 PM.
- Khansama, 166 Serangoon Road, tel. +65-62990300. Cheap food court style eats downstairs (under S$5) and a midrange air-con restaurant upstairs (mains S$5-10). Best known for its tandoori dishes and a wide selection of chaat appetizers.
- Muthu's Curry, 72-78 Race Course Rd. Muthu's has a respectable claim to coming up with the idea of fish head curry; now run by the founder's son, this shop continues to draw the crowds. Fish heads S$16-25 depending on the size. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.
Splurge
- Delhi Restaurant, 60 Race Course Rd (2nd branch on Serangoon Rd). Offers a more upmarket experience with vested waiters and a stack of awards posted on the wall. The menu features northern Indian food and has non-vegetarian selections as well; order a couple of Kingfisher beers to get pappadam with an excellent mint dip on the house. Mains S$10 and up.
Drink
Race Course Rd has some funky pubs and bars. Desker Road is Singapore's dingiest quarter of ill repute and best avoided, especially on Sundays.
Sleep
Little India is Singapore's backpacker district and has many hostels offering cheap lodging.
Budget
- The Inn Crowd, 73 Dunlop Street, [6]. A friendly backpacker hostel with an excellent website. Dorm beds $18, double rooms S$48 (for two), breakfast and internet access included.
- Hangout @ Mt. Emily, 10A Upper Wilkie Road (7 min uphill from MRT Little India exit A), tel. +65-64385588, [7]. "No frills, just fun!", proclaims the recently renovated Mt. Emily Hostel. Dorm beds S$25++ (no breakfast), doubles from S$76++ (with breakfast). Free internet PCs, rooftop bar, laundry facilities, lockers, etc.
- Dragon Group of Hotels, A group of 7 budget hotels providing a wide range of affordable and quality accommodation centrally located in various parts Singapore, including Little India, Geylang and Bugis. Double rooms from SGD$40 onwards. Please visit http://www.dragongrouphotel.com for more info. [8]
