Ubon Ratchathani
From World travel guide
Ubon Ratchathani (อุบลราชธานี) is the name of a province and its capital in the northeastern Isaan region of Thailand. Often referred to as simply Ubon (อุบล), the city should not be confused with its near-twin Udon to the north.
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Understand
Ubon was founded on the northern bank of the Mun River by a group of Lao princes fleeing Vientiane in the late 1700's. They applied for King Taksin's protection, duly granted in 1779 along with the city's new name, meaning "Royal City of the Lotus". Modern-day Ubon was a U.S. air base during the Vietnam War and grew rapidly at the time, but little has happened since then. The town of Warin Chamrap, on the south bank of the river, is effectively a suburb of Ubon these days.
Get in
By plane
The grandly named Ubon Ratchathani International Airport (UBP) in reality serves only flights to Bangkok, but a longstanding Thai Airways monopoly was recently broken when low-cost competitor Air Asia added the city to its roster. The airport is at the northern edge of the city, almost within walking distance; take a 70-baht coupon taxi to any point in the city, or head out the parking gate to haggle with the waiting tuk-tuk drivers.
By bus
Buses from Bangkok, an 8-hour ride, arrive at the BKS station, or more commonly known as Morchit 2 or Morchit Mai, to the north of the city. Ubon is also less than 100 km away from the Laotian border at Chongmek/Pakse, although you'll have to transfer a number of times to manage the trip on public transport.
By train
Occasional trains connect to Bangkok, 10 hours away. The line passes through most larger southern Isaan towns on its way, including Si Saket, Surin, Buriram, and Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat). The station is to the south of the city in Warin Chamrap; buses 2 and 6 connect to the center.
Get around
A bus/songthaew network with 13 fixed lines operates around the city. Lines are (mostly) numbered and colour-coded; pick up a map at the Ubon TAT office.
Alternatively, there are plenty of tuk-tuks puttering and samlors pedaling around. As always, agree on a fare before you get in, and expect to pay 20-40 baht depending on distance and your haggling skills.
See
Ubon is a little short on must-see sights, although there are a few mildly interesting temples.
- Thung Si Muang Park, at the center of town in front of City Hall, is a pleasant little park with several points of interest.
- A bright yellow elaborately carved candle sculpture, completed in 2000, standing 22 meters tall and dedicated to the King, showcases Isaan art styles and has become the symbol of the city. The candle is placed on a junk, with a garuda eagle at the bow and a naga serpent around it.
- A statue of Phra Phatumvoraratsuriyawang commemorates the tersely named founder of the town.
- A Monument of Merit has been erected by former World War II POWs to commemorate the kindness of the people of Ubon.
- Wat Nong Bua (off Chanyangkun Rd, past BKS station) is a highly unusual large white angular chedi, said to be a copy of the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodh Gaya, India. Quite stunning in appearance, but the decorations seem rather modern and with reason — the structure was built only in 1957 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of Buddha's death.
- Wat Thung Si Muang (Luang Rd) is primarily notable for its wooden scripture hall (hor trai), on stilts above a pond to stop ants and termites. The monastery itself was built in the reign of Rama III (1824-51) to house a replica of Buddha's footprint. The Ayutthaya-style bot is currently (2004) being repaired.
Do
- Ubon's biggest event is the Candle Festival, held in early July on Khao Phansa day at the beginning of the Buddhist rainy season fast. Huge wax candles are displayed in Thung Si Muang park, then carried around town the next morning in a procession.
- A less well known illuminated boat procession is also held in October to mark the end of the rainy season (Ok Phansa).
Buy
There aren't any particularly noteworthy markets. American-style strip malls dot the main roads south and north of the city.
Eat & Drink
- Muen Thip (Phichit Rangsan Rd, east of intersection with Thepyothi) is a very popular two-story place specializing in a Thai interpretation of Korean barbecue (neua yang Kaolee), grilled at your own table and dipped in fiery sauces. A plate of your meat of choice and a large tray of veggies, plenty for two, will set you back 90 baht. English menu available, not that you really need it.
- Big Chilli Chakkree Rd. Maybe the best Mexican Restaurant in Thailand! Run by Wes. Atmosphere is plain, but the food is amazing.
Sleep
Most of Udom's hotels date to the 70s and look the part.
- Laithong Hotel (Phichit Rangsan Rd, tel. 045-264271) advertises itself with the tagline "In Ubon, Luxury Equals the Laithong Hotel" — which is probably true, if only for lack of competition. A little faded in decor, but kept in reasonably good shape, and features a pool, restaurant, nightclub and karaoke bar. Rooms 1400 baht and up.
- Tohsang Khongjian Resort (66 Moo 7, Baan Huay-Mak Tai, Khongjiam; tel. 045-351174; [1]) might wish to dispute this assertion though. However, this classy resort on the banks of the Mekong River near the Lao border is over an hour away from the city. Rooms 2000 baht and up.
Contact
- The sleepy Ubon office of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (264/1 Khuan Thani Rd) is worth a visit to pick up useful English maps of the town and nearby provinces. Basic English spoken. Open daily from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM.
Get out
- The Khmer temple of Preah Vihear (Prasat Khao Phra Wihaan in Thai) is accessible as a day trip from Ubon.
