Ushuaia

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Situated on the Beagle Strait, Ushuaia is the largest city in Argentine Tierra del Fuego, and arguably the southernmost city in the world. In the past, the town has been a missionary base, penal colony and naval base for the Argentine navy. Ushuaia is now a major tourist town, complete with casinos and nice restaurants, and commonly used as a base for hiking, winter sports and cruises to Antarctica.

Ushuaia
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Ushuaia

Contents

Understand

In the late 19th century, the land that is now called Ushuaia was inhabited entirely by Yamana Indians and a handful of missionaries. At the time of writing (October 2005), there is allegedly one pure-blooded native-speaking Yamana Indian left. An excellent book on the history of the Yamana and their demise is The Uttermost Part of the Earth by E. Lucas Bridges, the son of one of the early missionaries. His father, Thomas Bridges, documented what he could of the Yamana language and found that it had a far larger vocabulary than the English language. Darwin, who famously sailed through the Beagle Channel, thought that the Yamana, were "the missing link".

Today the town is growing fast as a result of increased tourism since the 2002 economic crash. The government has encouraged this growth by designating Tierra del Fuego a virtually tax-free zone to encourage people to settle (many of the inhabitants of today's Ushuaia come from Chaco, in the north of Argentina). The cost of living however, is relatively high as all goods have to be transported long distances, usually by container ship.

Climate-wise, Ushiaia is warmer than many assume; although (arguably) the southernmost city in the world, it is no further south than Belfast is north, and temperatures rarely drop below -10. However, summers tend not to climb much above +12 and, as in all of Patagonia, strong winds add a significant wind chill factor.

Get in

There are regular Aerolineas Argentinas flights from Buenos Aires (city). Buses from all over Argentina enter via Rio Gallegos.

Get around

There is no public transport around Tierra del Fuego. However, tours / transport can be booked through the Tourist Office (on San Martin) or through many of the hostels. Taxis are another option, costing, for example, Ar$8 to get from the city centre to either the airport or Glaciar Martial. There are also several car / bicycle hire companies.

See

  • Museo Marítimo, Yagones y Gobernador Paz [1]. Located in an old prison displays a collection of the history of Tierra del Fuego.
  • Estancia Haberton - Open only in the summer months, Estancia Haberton is a worthwhile trip for those interested in the Bridges family and their role in the local history.

Do

  • Hike the Glacier Martial - Provided that you wear comfortable shoes and have the patience, a hike up the Glacier Martial will provide a very beautiful view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Chanel. There is also a single ski slope open during the winter months, and ski hire is available from the site.
  • Catamaran trips - Catamaran trips will take you around the Beagle channel and give you nice views of the mountains, cormorants, sea lions and penguins.
  • Cerro Castor - This centre for winter sports offers skiing and snowboarding. Nearby, you can also ride snowcats or husky sleighs.
  • Kayak the Beagle Channel - Kayaks can be hired near the Aeroparque on the promontory jutting out from Ushuaia.

Eat

  • Opiparo, Maipu 1255, Tel: +54-2901-434022, info@opiparo.com.ar, [2]. The best pizza & pasta restaurant at the world's end.
  • Kaupé, Roca 470, Tel: +54-2901-422704, Fax: +54-2901-422704, evivian@kaupe.com.ar, [3]. Expensive compared to other restaurants in Ushuaia, but the view is spectacular and the food is absolutely, positively guaranteed not to disappoint.

Drink

  • Lennon Pub, on the waterfront, will happily serve you music and drinks 'til at least 6 am daily.
  • Dublin Bar, on 25 de Mayo, is popular with tourists.
  • Galway Bar, on San Martin, is another popular Irish pub although it usually has less atmosphere than Dublin.
  • Nautico, on Maipu, is Ushuaia's only real nightclub / disco, and is open until 6am on the weekends.

Sleep

Hotels in Ushuaia are often booked, especially during peak tourist season, thus it is advisable to arrive in Ushuaia with reservations.

  • Hotel Maitén

Hostels on the other hand are numerous and even in mid summer you should have no problem finding a bed.

  • Antarctica Hostel, [4]. One of the best hostels in town. Just opened recently. Free internet access and breakfast is included. Shared kitchen. Dorm bed Ar$16, double Ar$50.
  • La Posada Del Duende (dorm: 20 pesos pp, double 40 pesos pp)
  • Yakush Hostel, [5], at Piedrabuena & San Martin (the main street), tel. 435807 (English spoken). Opened in May, 2004. Very inexpensive, $13 pesos (usd$5) and well located. Clean, funky decorations, free email, 24hr hot water, private lockers in each room, TV, and music. Breakfast included. Great staff - hang out, talk, and share a mate or five!

Get out

Flights can be booked from the Aerolineas office in Ushuaia. Buses to Buenos Aires and other destinations (apart from Puerto Natales) all stop at Rio Gallegos. It can be cheaper to just buy a ticket to Rio Gallegos and purchase an onward ticket from there.

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