Hirosaki

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Lanterns on a Neputa float
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Lanterns on a Neputa float

Hirosaki (弘前) is a city in Aomori prefecture, in the northern Tohoku region of the main Japanese island Honshu.

Contents

Understand

Hirosaki was the capital of the Tsugaru clan that once ruled over much of Tohoku's northern parts. Occasionally called "the Kyoto of the North", this hyperbole is backed up mostly by an abundance of temples and a famous version of the Neputa Festival.

Get in

By train

Hirosaki is on the JR Ōu Main Line (奥羽本線) connecting Aomori, Akita and Fukushima.

From Tokyo Station, it's a five-hour ride to Hirosaki by taking the Tohoku Shinkansen Hayate train to Hachinohe, then changing to the Tsugaru Limited Express train. At a cost of ¥17400, it will probably make sense to purchase a rail pass beforehand.

Local trains from Aomori depart once per hour and take about 50 minutes (¥630).

Hirosaki is also one of the final stops on the Akebono overnight train that runs from Tokyo's Ueno Station, and the Nihonkai overnight trains from Osaka and Kyoto.

Get around

Hirosaki is fairly spread out and you will need to figure out the bus system to get around affordably. Most lines radiate from JR Hirosaki station.

See

Tenshukaku, Hirosaki Castle
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Tenshukaku, Hirosaki Castle

Castle grounds

  • Hirosaki Castle (弘前城 Hirosaki-jō). Only a few parts of the castle (built in 1627) remain, but the central donjon (天守閣 Tenshukaku) still looks pretty, especially in cherry blossom season. The grounds have been turned into a large park, including 5000 cherry trees. Admission to the museum in the donjon, featuring the usual array of swords and helmets, costs ¥200. Nearest bus stop Shiyakusho-mae (15 min from station).
  • Neputa Village (ねぷた村 Neputa-mura). Located at the park's northerneastern corner, this is where the festival's floats and memorabilia are held outside the Neputa festival season (see Do). The Village showcases a particularly large 8x10m specimen, and sheepishly notes that it's now too big to fit under the electric wires that crisscross Japanese streets. There are also several workshops preparing traditional Hirosaki handicrafts, which can be purchased by visitors. Admission ¥500.
  • Otemon Square. On the other side of the park, this complex contains Hirosaki's tourist information center and showcases more beautiful Neputa stuff including Japan's largest drum, diameter 4.5m wide and big enough for 50 people to bang on at once. Free admission.
Five-story pagoda, Saishōin
Enlarge
Five-story pagoda, Saishōin

Temples

  • Zenringai (禅林街) is a collection of 33 Zen temples moved or built here to spiritually safeguard Hirosaki Castle. To get there, take a bus to Yonchuko and get off at Shigemori-cho Chosho-ji (20 min).
    • Chōshō-ji Temple (長勝寺). Known for the Sanmon Gate (1629) and a hall filled with wooden statues of the 500 Disciples of Buddha. Admission ¥300, open daily 8 AM to 5 PM (but closed December through March).
  • Shinteramachi (新寺町) is a slightly newer set of temples affiliated with the Nichiren sect. To get there, take a bus to Sakuragaoka and get off at Hirosaki High School (13 min).
    • Saishō-in Monastery (最勝院). Known for its five-storied pagoda, completed in 1667, which stands 31.2 meters tall and took ten years to built on the order of Tsugaru clan leader Nobuyoshi.

Do

  • Hirosaki's biggest event is the yearly Neputa Matsuri (ねぷた祭り), held in the first week of August and quite similar to Aomori's Nebuta Matsuri (note slight difference in spelling). The festival is famous for its extravagant and colouful illuminated floats and accompanying dancers, and accommodation in the area is booked tight in season.

Buy

Eat

Hirosaki is Japan's leading producer of apples, introduced to the city in 1875 by John Inge, an American teacher working at a local school.

Drink

Sleep

  • Hirosaki Youth Hostel. Tel. 0172-33-7066, [1]. Housed in a concrete cube, this is a dull but friendly base for exploring the city. A bed for the night costs ¥3045 for HI members.

Contact

Drop into the Hirosaki Tourist Information Center at Otemon Square (under See) for useful maps and information.

Get out

External links

WikiPedia:Hirosaki

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